Overview:

Alan Leland comes to us from Durham, North Carolina where he has his home and his studio. He began woodworking in 1975 in the furniture industry for a company called “This End Up.” As with many other U.S. based companies, overseas competition forced cutbacks and eventual closing. Alan then went on his own designing and building his own style of furniture. He also began woodturning. He has continued in both of these endeavors. He specializes in traditional and functional turning. His ornaments are very delicate and flawlessly finished. Alan teaches hands-on classes at his own studio and for woodturning clubs both in and outside of North Carolina. He has demonstrated at the American Association of Woodturners Symposiums in Charlotte, NC, Orlando, FL, and Louisville, KY. His teaching focuses on skills and techniques. It is geared to spindle turning which he feels lays a good foundation for any woodturner including those who want to specialize in bowl turning.

Morning Session:

Alan began his demonstration with his detailed ornament consisting of a globe, finial (icicle) and cap. He prefers dogwood or maple burl for the globe and a contrasting hardwood for the icicle and cap. He usually uses a glue block to hold the globe portion. The glue block was placed in the chuck, trued up and the glue face side flattened using a spindle gouge. Alan stressed that the tenon on the glue block should be at about 89 degrees so that the block seated properly in the chuck. After sanding the surface of the globe blank that would be attached to the glue block it was glued using thick CA glue. The tailstock was brought up to press the two surfaces together. A small bead of glue was applied around the glue joint and then accelerator applied. A previously glued up block was placed in the chuck in place of the one just glued. This was then rounded with the spindle-roughing gouge. The diameter of the globe cylinder was measured (should be 2 to 2 ½ inches). This measurement was then marked on the cylinder and reduced by one quarter to one third. This gave a rough estimate of the height of the globe. The center line of the globe was marked and each half was divided in half. The area between the marked off globe and the glue block was removed using the beading-parting tool. Edges were blunted to prevent injury especially when sanding. The edges of the globe were rounded producing a rough shaped globe. The previously drawn center line was left for symmetry until the final shaping. The shape of the globe is a flattened sphere. This permits the cap and the icicle to compliment the curve of the globe. Any small ridges produced by the gouge were then sanded with the lathe at a slow speed to prevent overheating of the wood. A dimple was then made on the bottom of the globe with the skew to facilitate using the drill bit. A Jacobs Chuck was placed in the tailstock and a five-eighths inch bit used. The depth to drill was measured and this distance marked on the bit with tape. It is best to mark the drill about one-eighth inch less than the desired depth in order to leave some margin of error and thus prevent, or at least lessen, the number of globes lost. The drill flutes were placed downward to facilitate the removal of shavings. The tailstock was removed in preparation for hollowing.

Alan uses a series of hollowing tools from Packard. He grinds each to achieve a degree of negative rake. These are HSS tools. Alan began with the straight hollowing tool and hollowed as much as he could. With this straight tool there is minimal torque. Hollowing was done all the way to the bottom of the drill hole. He then used the 45-degree angle tool, which permitted him to hollow from the center of the globe to the bottom. Then the 80-degree angle tool was used to hollow from the opening of the globe to the center area. Calipers were used to aid in the measurement of wall thickness. Once the globe was hollowed the tenon was reduced in size. This was done with the beading-parting tool. The curve of the globe on the tenon end was refined and sanded. The entire globe was sanded (Alan goes up to 1500 grit), and then ScotchBrite pads (gray – then gold) were used to polish the surface. The tenon was turned to less than five-eighths inch (the diameter of the drill bit used earlier). The drill was placed back in the Jacobs Chuck and inserted into the globe to the bottom of the previously drilled hole. It was then backed off slightly. The lathe was run at a slow speed, the drill advanced, and the globe parted off by the drill bit. The globe actually rode up the bit so there was no chance of it flying off. The thickest portion of the globe becomes the top. This completed the globe portion of the ornament.

The icicle was then turned. A steb center was placed in the #1 jaws. A wood contrasting in color to the globe was placed between centers. This piece was roughed into a cylinder with the spindle roughing gouge. A cone shape was formed with the thinner end toward the tailstock. A tenon was placed on the headstock end to place into the #1 jaws. The foot was made three-eighths inch wide and the shoulder slightly undercut to give the tenon a secure fit in the jaws. The tenon was then placed in the jaws. The tailstock was not used. The piece was further shaped with the roughing gouge. Alan formed a fairly thin cone. Distances were marked so that so that the icicle details could be determined. The tip was shaped using the spindle gouge. A small tear drop was formed then a tapered tear drop. At this point the turned portion was sanded. This area would not be returned to because of its thin dimensions. Further details were formed including two flat plates with a ball between. Another tear drop was formed. The portion of the icicle adjacent to the globe was then turned. It was shaped to give it a pleasing appearance that complimented the shape of the globe. The tenon was turned to fit into the globe and was checked with calipers. The base of the icicle was undercut to accommodate the curvature of the top of the globe. Because the upper and lower portions of the globe had been made relatively flat this undercutting did not need to be too steep. The undercutting was done from the tenon to the outside. However, the final cut has to come from the outside to be certain that the outer edge of the icicle rim is smooth and does not have a ridge. The icicle would then be sanded (except the distal potion) and parted off. This completed the icicle.

The cap was then turned from the remaining part of the icicle blank. Once shaped a tenon was made to fit into the underside of the globe. It was undercut and sanded. A small pilot hole was made in the center of the cap so that a small drill could be easily inserted to make the hole for the eyelet. * The cap was then parted off. This completed the cap and the ornament. Alan uses Mohawk spray lacquer and applies it with the ornament slowly turning. Multiple, very light coats are used. It is important to finish the ornament as soon as possible so that staining of the wood does not occur. This can happen when particles from the grinder get on one’s hands and then are transferred to the globe surface.  This completed the morning session.

Afternoon Session: Lamp

Alan began his lamp demo by showing how the laminated blank is glued up. Three pieces of maple were used with purple heart veneers in between them. The veneers were one-eighth inch thick. Glue is spread on both sides of the pieces and they are then clamped. Alan uses Titebond-original.

Drilling a lamp blank can be difficult because the drill bit can wander. This is because of the winter/summer growth rings. To avoid this Alan places two short pieces of maple in the center of the blank instead of one long, solid piece. By doing this he only has to drill holes at each end and not the length of the lamp. He leaves small openings at each end that he plugs so that the piece can be placed between centers. Once plugged the centers at each end are determined. This blank is then set aside so that the glue can dry and the base is made.

The blank for the base is 12x12x2 inches. A circle is scribed to determine the actual lamp base size. A router is used to cut a groove in the underside of the base for the lamp’s electrical cord. The groove does not go all the way to the center. It stops about one-half inch from the center. This is so that the groove does not interfere with placing the blank between centers. A center hole is drilled into the upper surface of the lamp base. This is made to accept the tenon that will be turned on the base end of the lamp column. After the tenon hole is drilled another three-eighths inch hole is drilled to accept the Talon chuck screw center. Then the band saw is used to cut out the base. The base is sanded to assure a flat bottom and then placed on the screw chuck. Be sure at least 3, better 4 or 5, threads grip the base piece. The tailstock is brought up. Alan does not have a pattern for the base. He eyeballs a shape that he feels suits the project. A face shield is worn while turning the base. First the piece is trued up using a side-grind bowl gouge. The shape is roughed out and it may be refined with a scraper, especially on those areas where it is not practical to use the bowl gouge. A spindle gouge was used to produce sharper details but caution is necessary using the spindle gouge, particularly when nearing end-grain. The area around the center hole for the tenon was left flat so that the lamp post could sit properly. The tailstock was removed and the piece sanded. It was taken off the screw chuck and the chuck removed. A steb center was inserted and the originally glued up lamp post blank was inserted between centers. The piece needs to be oriented so that the finished, heaviest portion of the piece is at the headstock end. Also, the more attractive grain patterns should be oriented to that same end. With large blanks the corners should be removed with the bandsaw. In this case, with a smaller blank, they were removed with the roughing gouge. To get the cleanest cuts possible lathe speed should be fairly fast because the maple/purple heart woods are alternating soft/hard. A cone was formed and, using calipers or pre-cut forms, the diameter of various parts of the lamp were marked out. Once the rough cone shape was made details were formed such as the bead near the top of the column. A spindle gouge was used to form the bead. A skew was used to improve the surface of the column below and above the bead. The surface of the column below the bead was checked to insure it was flat. A tenon was then made to fit the previously drilled hole in the upper side of the base. The shoulder was undercut so that the column sat firmly on the flat surface of the base. A small bevel was turned on the lower end of the column to produce a shadow line thus adding to the lamp’s appearance. It was then sanded up to 1500 grit and polished with ScotchBrite pads. The ends of the lamp post were drilled to accept the lamp rod which was passed through the column and into the base. Nuts and washers were placed on both ends and the bulb fixture placed on top. The wire was threaded down through the column and along the groove in the base. This could be covered with felt or cork. This completed the structural formation of the lamp.

Next, Alan turned to coloring. He discussed using paint, dyes and ink. He mentioned Gary Sanders and his testing various dyes exposed to the Texas sun. Metalized dyes appear to be the most sun resistant. Alan showed three lamps – each finished differently: 1.) Paint – dye – ink 2.) Dye – ink – paint and 3.) Ink – paint – dye. At first they appeared the same but on closer examination they were different and Alan stated that in the sun the differences were more dramatic especially the color tones. All were finished with the same color paints, inks and dyes. This completed an informative demonstration by an excellent turner. A DVD will be available in the club library in January 2007.

* Doug Nesbitt provided the following information: For small (5/32” diameter) brass screw eyes for ornaments try www.meiselwoodhobby.com - click on Meisel, at bottom of list enter “screw eyes” in search site. Eyes are #7416 .1562 diameter. Package of 20 is $3.60.

* Alan Leland provided the following information for lamp parts: www.wndesherbinin.com or 800-458-0010 (based in Connecticut)

Bob Gunther

Link to Alan's Website

Link to Alan's Handouts